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D&D 5E – Drowning

27 Comments Posted by on May 3, 2015

Drowning

I haven’t posted here in a while. I have been working on 5E Ship-to-Ship combat rules. They will be finished soon. In the mean time here is part that may be of general interest.

Drowning Rules for D&D 5E

Falling Off the Ship

Rough water adds 5 to all the following DCs except for checks made when more than 5 feet under the surface. Flotsam or other floating items grant advantage to checks  to stay afloat.

The Fall

This can be hazardous to your health. If you fall overboard you will splash down 1d6+5 feet from your ship. If you are pushed overboard you will fall 2d6+5 feet from your ship. If you jump or dive into the water you can enter the water at any point up to the maximum distance you can jump (refer to the Jumping rules in the Player’s Handbook). If you fall or are pushed overboard, you must succeed on a DC 10 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check to enter the water without damage. Otherwise you receive 1d6 hit points damage from the fall.

Swimming

Each foot you swim cost you one extra foot of speed. If you are within 5 feet of a moving ship (or one that has been involved in a ramming or grappling maneuver), you must make as DC 10 Strength (Athletics) check. Failure means that you cannot move this round, you are using all of your strength to simply keep your head above the waves. Once you reach the ship, you must make as DC 15 Strength (Athletics) check to climb back onto the ship. Failure results in you falling back into the water.

Underwater

You can swim underwater as long as you can hold your breath (see “Drowning” below). Your underwater swimming speed is the same as your surface swimming speed. You can swim straight down at half that speed. You can swim straight down at 15 feet per round if holding the equivalent of medium armor, or 25 feet per round if holding the equivalent of heavy armor. If unencumbered, you can swim straight up at 20 feet per round.

Armor

In general, heavy armor is not terribly common on ships. The weight tends to be the most prohibitive factor – falling overboard in 65-pound full plate normally results in death. Occasionally, combat Infantry will don light or medium armor for a battle, but most of the time sailors go unarmored. A lucky few (usually the PCs and important NPCs) have magic items that improve their AC, but most sailors rely on their natural Dexterity.

Light Armor

Attempting to swim while wearing light armor requires that you make a DC 10 Strength (Athletics) check each round. Failure means you have a speed of 0 as you go under water for that round and loose one carried item, shield or weapon (your choice as to what you drop).

If you choose to remove your armor after entering the water, it will take one minute (10 rounds). A successful DC 15 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check will cut that time in half. During this time you cannot swim or take any other actions. You make a DC 10 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check each round. Each round that you succeed you keep your head above water and counts as one round of the rounds required to remove your armor. Failure means that you went under water this round and made no headway in removing your armor. After 3 failures you receive one level of exhaustion.

Medium Armor

You can attempt to swim while wearing medium armor, but you must make DC 15 Strength (Athletics) check each round. On a success, if you are on the surface at the beginning of the round, you stay on the surface. Each foot you swim cost you two extra feet of speed and you can take no other actions besides shouting and stowing a weapon. A failed check means you sink 10 feet and lose any still-carried shields or weapons. On the round following a failed check you are under water. After that, on a successful check  you can swim toward the surface at a rate of 15 feet per round. On failure you sink another 10 feet.

You can attempt to remove your armor, but you will be sinking at a rate of 10 feet per round during this time. It normally takes 1 minute (10 rounds) to doff your armor, but a successful DC 15 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check will cut that time in half. Without your armor you can swim toward the surface at a rate of 20 feet per round.

Heavy Armor

You cannot swim while wearing heavy armor, giving you an effective speed of 0. Whenever you are in water, you lose any carried shields and weapons and begin to sink. You make a DC 25 Strength (Athletics) check each round. Success keeps your head above water, or if you start the round under water you can swim 15 feet toward the surface. You can take no other actions. A failed check means you sink another 20 feet.

You can attempt to remove your armor, but you will be sinking at a rate of 20 feet per round during this time. It normally takes 5 minutes (50 rounds) to doff your armor, but a successful DC 15 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check will cut that time in half. Without your armor you can swim toward the surface at a rate of 20 feet per round.

Drowning

After 1+(con bonus) minutes of holding your breath underwater you fall unconscious, your hit points fall to 0, and you can then survive for a number of rounds equal to your Constitution modifier (minimum 1 round). After that, you begin making your death saving throws as per the standard rules. However, if you become stable there is a problem. If you are still under water you can’t remain stable. So you must start making death saving throws again. This continues until you die unless you are saved in some way.

Optional rules , , ,

D&D 5E – Character Sheet Instructions

68 Comments Posted by on February 14, 2015 


party_smallOkay, now what do we do with this Character Sheet?


Filling in the 5E Character Sheet Box by Box


UPDATE: The instructions  on this page are for an older version of the character sheet. For the most recent auto-calculate Character Sheets and its instructions click HERE.


These instructions are for use with the character sheet you can download HERE. You can print a blank Character Sheet and fill it out by hand using these instructions. If you fill it out on your computer, the boxes that will be filled in for you are shown in red.


You might prefer a character sheet with more pages and class feature sheets. You can download them here. The instructions are the same.


#____ : Character sheet version. If you make multiple copies of your character sheet enter the version number here. For example, if you print a new copy of your character sheet each time  you advance to the next level you may want to put the number 1 here for the first time you print it and change that to a 2 before you print it the next time. Whatever you enter here will also be entered on all of the other sheets.


Player: This is you

Campaign: This is the name of the campaign. Ask the DM.

Character Creation Date: The date that you create this character. [Believe me, years from now, when you find this sheet among your old D&D stuff, you will want to know this.]

Current XP: Your character starts off at first level and with 0 experience points. You will be earning experience points as you adventure. Your DM will tell you how many experience points your character earned at the end of each different adventure, and occasionally more often. You can keep a running total here.

Next Level Goal: This is how many experience points you need to advance to the next level. Refer to the table in the PHB. You need 300 points to advance from first level to second level.

CHARACTER 

Name: This is your Character’s name. If you can’t think of a name ask the DM for advice. Whatever name you enter here will also be entered on all of the other sheets.

Race: Enter your character’s race here. It can be Dwarf, Elf, Halfling, Human, Dragonborn, Gnome, Half-Elf, Half-Orc, or Tiefling. Check with the DM first, he may not have all these races in his campaign world.

Class: Enter your character’s class in this box. You may choose from Barbarian, Bard, Cleric, Druid, Fighter, Monk, Paladin, Ranger, Rogue, Sorcerer, Warlock or Wizard.

Alignment: Your character can be any alignment you choose but your DM may not allow evil aligned player characters. The possible alignments are: Lawful good (LG), Neutral good (NG), Chaotic good (CG), Lawful neutral (LN), Neutral (N), Chaotic neutral (CN), Lawful evil (LE), Neutral evil (NE), and Chaotic evil (CE).

Sex: M or F –your choice, there is no in-game advantage to either sex.

Level: This is your character’s current level. You start out at level 1. For multi-class characters, this is the total of all their levels in all of their classes. A character’s level can never exceed 20. If filling this out on your computer, many of the fields on the sheet will be filled in when you enter a number here.

Size: This depends on your character’s race. Gnomes and Halflings are small (S), all other standard races are medium (M).

Age: Enter the age of your character here.

Height: Select any height that is appropriate for your race.

Weight: Select any weight that is appropriate for your race.

Speed: This is the number of feet you can move in one combat round. Dwarf 25 (not reduced by wearing heavy armor), Elf 30, Wood Elf 35, Halfling 25, Human 30, Dragonborn 30, Gnome 25, Half-elf 30, Half-Orc 30, Tiefling 30.

If your character is wearing heavy armor, and his strength score is less than the minimum listed for that armor, his speed is reduced by 10.

Initiative: This is your initiative modifier. When you roll for your character’s initiative at the beginning of combat, you add this to your initiative roll. Unless you have some feature or ability that affects this, your initiative modifier is the same as your Dexterity modifier.

Initiative adjustment: If some feature of the game grants your character a bonus to his initiative modifier (for example the “alert” feat gives you a +5 bonus to initiative) you can click on the word “Dex” below the initiative box and enter a number. This number will be added to your initiative modifier.

ABILITIES 

Ability Score: Using a method approve by your DM, determine your character’s ability scores, modify them according to your character’s race and enter the scores in the corresponding boxes.

Ability Modifier: For each ability, the modifier is determined by subtracting 10 from the ability score and then dividing the result by 2 (rounding down). Or you can simply look it up on the table in the PHB.

Saving Throws: This is the saving throw modifier for each ability. It is the same as the ability modifier, unless your character is proficient in that ability’s saving throw. This is typically a proficiency you get because of your race. If you are proficient, check the small box and add your proficiency bonus (see below) to the ability modifier to get your saving throw modifier.

ARMOR CLASS

Armored (the number you put in the shield): This is typically 10 + armor bonus if wearing armor + shield bonus if using a shield.

If wearing light armor add your Dex modifier.

If wearing medium armor add your Dex modifier up to a maximum of +2

You don’t add your Dex modifier to your armor class if you are wearing heavy armor.

Without Armor: 10 + Dexterity modifier (unless a class feature overrides this). Note that if your Dexterity modifier is negative, it lowers your armor class.

HIT POINTS

This box is where you list your maximum hit points. At first level this will be the highest roll of your hit dice (see below) plus your Constitution modifier.

Hit Dice: Here you enter the type of hit die your character uses and the number of hit die of that type you have. At first level your character has 1 hit die. The hit die type depends on your character’s class; Barbarian 1d12, Bard 1d8, Cleric 1d8, Druid 1d8, Fighter 1d10, Monk 1d8, Paladin 1d10, Ranger 1d10, Rogue 1d8, Sorcerer 1d6, Warlock 1d8, Wizard 1d6.

Current Hit Points: As your character takes damage, he loses hit points. You can use this box to track the damage.

Temporary Hit Points: Some magic spells or other game effects can grant your character what are called “temporary hit points.” You can list these here and track their loss. You lose these before you lose regular hit points. You lose any remaining temporary hit points after finishing a long rest.

Available Hit Dice: You have one hit die for each level. At the end of a short rest, you can roll one or more of these hit die and, for each die rolled, recover the indicated number of hit points plus your character’s Constitution modifier. You can use this space to keep track of the number of hit die you have left to use for healing. After a long rest, you regain a number of hit die equal to half your total number of them, or a minimum of one hit die.

Death Saves: When you start your turn with 0 hit points you make a death saving throw. You must roll 1d20 and on a roll of 10 or higher you succeed, otherwise you fail. On your third success you become stable, on your third failure you die. A role of 1 counts as two failures. A roll of 20 means that you are no longer dying and you regain 1 hit point. You can use this space to track your progress.

Advantages: List any conditions where you get advantage. For example if you are a dwarf, you have advantage on saving throws against poison.

Disadvantages: List any where you have a disadvantage. For example if your character is small (size S) then you have disadvantage when using heavy weapons.

INSPIRATION

Place a check in this box when you get inspiration. Remove the check when you use it. You either have inspiration or you don’t. Your DM can award your character inspiration, typically for good (or entertaining) roll playing. If you have inspiration, you can spend it to get advantage on any attack roll, saving throw, or ability check. You can give up your inspiration to another character if you think he deserves is.

EXHAUSTION

You can use this area to keep track of your character’s level of exhaustion. Your DM will tell you when your character is susceptible to a level of exhaustion.

PROFICIENCY BONUS

List your proficiency bonus here. It starts out as +2 at first level and increases as you advance in level.

PASSIVE PERCEPTION

This is your Perception Skill bonus modifier +10.

Passive Perception adjustment: If some feature of the game grants you a bonus to your passive (wisdom) perception modifier (for example the “observant” feat gives you a +5  bonus) you can click on the word “Wis” to the left of the box and enter a number. This number will be added to your passive perception modifier.

PROFICIENCIES

Skills: Your character will have proficiency in certain skills. For each skill he is proficient in, place a check in the box by that skill. Add your proficiency bonus to the associated ability modifier to determine the bonus you apply to these skill checks. When he attempts to perform a skill that he is not proficient in, it becomes a simple ability check, so enter the ability modifier for that skill’s ability.

x2: There are some class features with double proficiency bonus on some skills, for example, the Knowledge Domain Cleric and Rogue’s Expertise. For each skill that your character has a double proficiency for, put a check in the little [x2] box to the right of that skill name. Double your proficiency bonus and add that to the associated ability modifier.

1/2: A second level Bard gets the “Jack of all Trades” feature. This adds half your proficiency bonus, rounded down, to ability checks you are not proficient in. If your character has this feature, for each skill that your character is not proficient in, put a check in the little [1/2] box to the right of that skill name. Divide your proficiency bonus by 2 (round down)  and add that to the associated ability modifier.

Skill adjustment: If some feature of the game grants you a bonus to skill  (for example a luckstone grants you a +1 bonus to skill checks) you can enter a number on the ability listed to the left of the box. Add this number  to the associated ability modifier.

Saves: List any ability or other saves (such as poison for example) where your character would receive a proficiency bonus to his saving throw.

Tools: If your character is proficient in the use of any types of tools, list them here.

Weapons: List the type of weapons your character is proficient with.

Armor: List the type of armor your character is proficient with. If you wear armor that you lack proficiency with, you have disadvantage on any ability check, saving throw, or attack roll that involves Strength or Dexterity, and you can’t cast spells.

Other: This is a catch-all for anything that your character has proficiency in that doesn’t fit into any of the other categories.

Sneak Attack: If your character is a rogue you can enter extra damage he does on a sneak attack. This will be 1d6 at first level.

 Rages: If your character is a barbarian you can enter the number of times he can rage between long rests. This will be 2 at first level.

Ki Points: If your character is a monk you can enter the number of ki points you have available between short or long rests. You don’t have any at 1st level. At 2nd level you get 2.

Martial Arts: If your character is a monk you can enter the amount of damage you do with an unarmed strike or monk weapon. This will be 1d4 at first level.

WEAPON BOXES

There is room to list up to 5 different weapons. If you have more weapons than this you can print additional sheets.

Weapon: On the line under the word “WEAPON” enter a description for the weapon. Note that if you are filling this out on a computer, the calculated fields for this weapon will remain blank until you enter some text on this line.

The line to the right of the word “WEAPON” is available for you to add additional information about the weapon if you want. For example, you may want to indicate if it is a Light weapon, or list other weapon properties, or a description, or a name.

Reach or Range: Melee weapons have a reach of 5 ft. unless they have the “reach” property and then it becomes 10 ft. Weapons that can be thrown and all ranged weapons have a normal and maximum range.

Type: The type of damage; bludgeoning (B), Piercing (P), or slashing (S)

Ability (STR or DEX): Most melee weapons use your Strength modifier, and most range weapons use your Dexterity modifier. If it is a melee weapon with the Finesse property, you can choose to use your Dexterity modifier. If it is a range weapon with the Thrown property, you can choose to use your Strength modifier. Check the box next to the ability you will be using.

Proficiency: If you have proficiency with this weapon. Check this small box and enter your proficiency bonus in the large box.

STR/DEX: Enter the appropriate ability modifier in this box. If you are fighting with two weapons, and this is your second light weapon, you don’t get an ability bonus to damage with this weapon so remove the check between the attack and damage boxes and do not enter the ability modifier for damage.

Magic: If the weapon receives a magic adjustment, enter this in both the attack and damage rows.

Misc. Enter any additional bonuses (or penalties) to attack and/or damage.

Attack Bonus: Add up all the attack adjustments and enter the total here. You will add this bonus to your attack rolls.

Damage Bonus: Add up all the damage adjustments and enter the total here. You will add this bonus to your damage rolls.

Damage Dice: Enter the number and type of die to roll for damage. For weapons with the Versatile property, also ether the damage if the weapon is used two handed. For instance, for a Longsword you could enter 1d8 (1d10).

Ammo: For weapons that use ammunition, you can use these boxes to check off your ammunition as it is used. If you take the time after a battle, you can normally recover half of your expended ammunition.

NOTES

The section on the lower right of the first sheet is for any notes you may want to add to help you remember details about your character. There may not be enough room here to describe all of his special abilities in detail, but you could list them here and keep the details on sheet 4, or look them up in the Players Handbook, until you have used them enough to remember how they work. For example, for a first level Dwarf Fighter you might note that he has Darkvision, Dwarven Resilience, Dueling, and Second Wind.

You may want to use separate cards to keep track of information that won’t fit on this sheet. You can use cards available HERE.

If you are filling this out on your computer, there are two non-printing boxes at the bottom of page one.

Update Calculations: All of the information filled in automatically for you should update whenever you make any change. Sometimes it doesn’t. You can press this button to force the form to update all of the calculated fields.

Clear: Be careful to not press this unless you want to erase everything from all of the fields on all pages. If you press it by accident, you may be able to recover the lost information if you press CTRL Z. This button is useful for clearing all fields and starting over, or before printing a blank form to fill out by hand.


PAGE 2

The first page contains everything you may need to reference during combat. The second page contains information about your character’s personality, his physical description, his background and his equipment. There is a wider margin on the left side of the first page and on the right side of the second page, so if you print them on the front and back side of the same sheet there should be room to punch holes for a binder. The sheet version and character name are duplicated  from page 1.

ARMOR

If your character normally wears armor, list the type of armor here.

Armor Class: List the armors armor class (AC) here

Category: This will be Light (L), Medium (M) or Heavy (H)

Don and Doff: The amount of time it takes to put on (don) and take off (doff). Refer to the PHB page 146.

 Strength: Only used if the armor is in the heavy category. This is the minimum strength to use this armor without receiving a -10 ft penalty to your speed.

Weight: How much the armor weighs.

SHIELD

If you have a shield, list if it is wood or metal.

Weight: All standard shields weigh 6 lb.

AC: All shields provide +2 to your armor class.

PROTECTIVE ITEMS

This is where you can keep track of magical items that provide a bonus to your armor class. If the item requires attunement, you can only be attuned to 3 magic items at the same time, so you may want to keep track of attunement here as well.

OTHER ITEMS

For tracking items that your character owns. You can get the weight for standard equipment packs HERE. For higher level characters, you may only want to list items here that your character always carries with him.

Carrying Capacity: This is your Strength score X 15.

Push, Dag, or Lift: This is twice your Carrying Capacity.

Total Weight Carried: Simply add up the weight of everything listed above.

Lifestyle: Your downtime, between adventures, lifestyle can be Wretched, Squalid, Poor, Modest, Comfortable, Wealthy, or Aristocratic. If everyone in the party wants to stay together between adventures they should all have the same lifestyle.

Expenses/day: This depends on your lifestyle. Refer to the PHB page 157.

TREASURE

This area is for keeping track of your character’s monetary and magical possessions. You can track the number of Copper Pieces (CP), Silver Pieces (SP), Electrum Pieces (EP), Gold pieces (GP) and Platinum Pieces (PP). [More information on coins in the post HERE.]

There is a space for Jewels & Gems [More information on gems in the post HERE], Magic items, and Other items.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS 

Age, Height, Weight, Eyes, Hair, Skin: Use the description of your character’s race in the Player’s Handbook as a guide. (Age, height and weight are also listed on page 1. Entering the information on one page will also enter it on the other page.)

Gender, Handedness: your choice. There is no game advantage or penalty regardless of your choice.

Physical Description: List distinguishing features- scars, tattoos, etc.

CHARACTER SKETCH

Draw a picture of your character in the frame. If you are using Adobe Reader, you can click on the image area and it will pop-up a “Select Icon” menu. You can use this to browse your computer for an image to place in this area. There are many good character sketches available on-line. The image must be in PDF file format. There are free utilities available that you can use to convert image files into PDF format. You may find A character schetch that you like HERE.

Languages: List the languages your character knows in this box. Unless you choose otherwise, your character can read and write any language that he can speak.

The rest of this page is straight forward. All of this information is useful in role playing your character. You may want to glance over this whenever you are trying to decide what your character would do in a particular situation.


PAGE 3 – SPELLS

This page is obviously for spellcasters. If your character can’t cast spells, there is no reason for you to print this page.

Primary Ability: This is your character’s primary spellcasting ability. This will be Intelligence, Wisdom or Charisma – depending upon your Class. Click on the down arrow and select from the list.

Spell save DC: This is 8 + your proficiency modifier + the ability modifier for your primary spellcasting ability.

Spell attack modifier: This is your proficiency modifier + the ability modifier for your primary spellcasting ability .

Number of Cantrips Known: This number depends on your class and level.

Spells Known or Available: Bards, Rangers, Sorcerers and Warkocks enter the number of spells known. Clerics, Druids, and Paladins enter the number of spells available.

Sorcery Points: Only Sorcerers have sorcery points.

Spell Slots and Castings

Enter the number of spell slots you have available in the space next to each spell level. As you expend spell slots to cast spells, you can check off the used slots in the boxes below.

Spellbook / Known Spells

If your character’s spellcasting class uses a spellbook, you can use this area to list the spells that it contains. If your class requires that you know a certain number of spells, you can list them here.

Use the checkbox next to a spell to indicate a spell that you have prepared. List cantrip’s as Level 0. There isn’t enough room here for full spell descriptions, so you can use the description space to list the major spell effect. For easy reference to the full spell descriptions, you may want to use spell cards, available HERE. If you only have a few spells, you might want to describe them in detail on page 4.


PAGE 4 – Character Background and/or Notes Overflow

This page is for you to use to tell the story of your character. Where he or she came from and why they are here. It can also be used to keep more detailed descriptions of your character’s feats and abilities that don’t fit on the other sheets. If you need more sheets, make multiple copies.

_____________________________________


The main thing to remember is that the character sheet is yours. Use it in any way that makes sense to you. You can write outside the boxes, use circles and arrows, scribble in the margins, or use it in any way that you choose. Also, you don’t have to completely fill out every box before you start playing. If you never decide on your character’s eye color, it won’t effect the game. [As a DM, I do strongly recommend that you give your character a name before your second gaming session. I have played too many times with one or more “no name” characters. This can be a distraction.]


Here are a couple of tips:

First, use pencil instead of ink. Many things can happen during an adventure that can cause things to change so keep an eraser handy.

Second, I find it useful to apply 3M brand “magic mending tape” over the areas that I know will be changing often, such as current hit points. You can write on it with a pencil and it stands up to frequent erasures without leaving a hole in the paper.

Now that you have filled out your Character sheet, let the game begin!



			


			

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D&D 5E – Quick Reference – Chase Rules

			

				

					15 Comments
					Posted by  on January 17, 2015
									

			

			

				
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Quick Reference – Chase Rules


Nobody told me that the new Dungeon Master’s Guide was going to contain rules for conducting chases. Hurray! These are good, fast and easy rules. You should use them. This is my interpretation of those rules along with my house rules and some Chase Complications tables.


My house rules are shown in blue. I find that using miniature figures helps when running a chase, so the following rules assume that you are using figures on a grid. Standard combat rules apply except as noted below. Characters that pause to take an action, other than Dash, move a distance equal to their move rate. Most characters use the Dash action and move a distance equal to twice their move rate.


    

  1.  Setup. Determine where everyone involved in the chase is located. The only thing that matters is how far apart everyone is. Place the lead quarry first, then place the others at the appropriate distance behind him. If their locations aren’t pre-determined based on the encounter, you can randomly set the distance from the lead pursuer to the closest quarry at the speed factor of the fastest creature + 5x(1d6) feet.
    2. 

  2.  Determine Initiative. Set initiative order based on position. The lead character is assigned the highest initiative, followed by the others in order of their distance behind him. This initiative order may change from round to round as creatures pass each other. Ties go to the one with the highest dexterity score.
    3. 

  3.  Track Movement. After the lead quarry determines his total move distance – write that distance down so it can be referenced by all players. Don’t move that figure. On each participant’s turn, compare the distance he moved to that of the lead quarry. If they are the same, the distance between them remains the same, so his figure doesn’t move. If he moved farther than the lead quarry, subtract the lead quarry’s move from his and move his figure forward by that amount. If the lead quarry moved farther than he did, subtract his move distance from the lead quarry’s and move his figure back by this amount.
    4. 

  4.  No Opportunity Attacks. No one involved directly in the chase can use an opportunity attack against anyone else in the chase.
    5. 

  5.  Track Exhaustion. You can use the Dash action a number of times equal to 3+ your Constitution modifier. For each Dash action after that you must succeed on a DC 10 Constitution check or take one level of exhaustion. Your speed becomes 0 when you reach level 5.
    6. 

  6.  Pursuer Overtakes Quarry.

      

    1.  Attack. If a pursuer is able to move into a quarry’s space, he may instead use a bonus action to perform a single melee attack against the quarry when he is within reach. The attack is made at a disadvantage. Note that the pursuer cannot use this option if he can only move within reach, but could not overtake the quarry if he chose to.
      2. 

    2.  Overtake. A pursuer overtakes a quarry when he moves into its space. He can then use a bonus action to attempt to grapple the creature. Normal grapple rules apply. If successful, both pursuer and quarry are stopped. Rather than grapple, the pursuer may attempt to trip, push over or tackle the quarry. The pursuer has advantage on the attack. As an optional rule, an attack that fails by 5 or more results in the pursuer falling prone.
      3. 

    

    7. 

  7.  Quarry Escapes. The quarry can attempt to escape if it is out of sight for all of the pursuers. He makes a Dexterity (Stealth) check and must beat the passive Wisdom (Perception) scores of the pursuers.
    8. 

  8.  Complications. Roll 1d20 at the end of your turn and compare that roll to the appropriate Chase Complications table. The complication is not applied to your character, but rather to the next character in initiative order. You can spend an inspiration point to negate the complication you rolled or one that effects you. Rather than rolling on the table, the DM may allow a quarry to impose a condition on a pursuer to slow him down. It might be one listed on the table, or one of his own creation. Another option to using a table would be for the DM to declare conditions based on his map or the terrain and the path the quarry takes.
    9. 



Prone. A complication may leave you prone. To get up from prone you subtract the distance represented by half your move rate from your total move distance.


Difficult Terrain. Each foot of difficult terrain uses two feet of your move rate. So if you cross five or ten feet of difficult terrain you can simply subtract five or ten feet from your total distance traveled.


Complication Tables. The following are Complication Tables that I have created for different terrain types. The first table is a generic complications table that can be used in a pinch, when you just need to run a chase quickly. The tables that follow that one list a complication type for each situation. Look up the type in the generic complication table.


 Generic Chase Complications






1d20
Type
Complication
Examples




1
Hazard
Make a DC 10 Dexterity saving throw to navigate the impediment. On a failed save, you fall 1d4 x 5 feet, taking 1d6 bludgeoning damage per 10 feet fallen as normal, and land prone.
Hole, crevice, trap, unseen obstacle, steep incline, heavily broken ground, the path skirts a quicksand pit, log bridge crossing a stream, running on rooftops, slippery floors, jump through window




2
Cramped space
Make a DC 15 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check to get through this space. On a failed check, the obstacle counts as 10 feet of difficult terrain.
street, market, public building, alleyway, shoppers, stationary crowd




3
Poor visibility
Make a DC 10 Constitution saving throw. On a failed save, you are blinded until the end of your turn. While blinded in this way, your speed is halved.
blind corner, woods, dense brush or busy area




4
Barrier
Make a DC 15 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check to get past the obstacle. On a failed check you fall prone.
wall, fence, cliff, thick hedges, tall fences, building, river, canyon or swamp




5
Impediment
Make a DC 10 Strength (Athletics) or Dexterity (Acrobatics) check (your choice) to get past the impediment. On a failed check, the obstacle counts as 5 feet of difficult terrain.
Tree branch, fallen log, chicken coop or vegetable cart, trail suddenly drops off, flock of birds




6
Crowd
Make a DC 10 Strength (Athletics) or Dexterity (Acrobatics) check (your choice) to make your way through the crowd unimpeded. On a failed check, the crowd counts as 10 feet of difficult terrain.
fleeing (or angry) peasants, a funeral procession, people leaving a performance, a moving crowd




7
Entanglement
Make a DC 15 Dexterity saving throw to avoid it. On a failed save, you are caught as if in a net and restrained. See chapter 5 “Equipment,” of the Player’s Handbook for rules on escaping a net.
Clotheslines, curtains, banners, drying pots, chimes, hanging meat, vines




8
Animal herd
Make a DC 10 Dexterity saving throw. On a failed save, you are knocked about and take 1d4 bludgeoning damage and 1d4 piercing damage.
Must pass through a herd of animals. Camels, Donkeys, Horses, Cows, etc.




9
Uneven Ground
Make a DC 10 Dexterity (Acrobatics) check to navigate the area. On a failed check, the ground counts as 10 feet of difficult terrain.
Any stairs of 4 or more steps (less than 4 steps is considered an “impediment”), river bank, hill, 5 feet or more change in elevation in 10 feet of horizontal movement.




10
Obstacles
Make a DC 10 Dexterity (Acrobatics) or Intelligence check (your choice) to past. On a failed check, the maze counts as 10 feet of difficult terrain.
Tables, chairs, pews, benches, carts, crates, field of boulders, field of giant mushrooms.




11-20
No Complication








 


Complications by terrain type


The headings are:

1d20      results of your d20 roll

Complication     This is what causes the obstruction.

Type      This refers to the Generic Chase Complications above.


Aerial Complications


Complications are easier to avoid when you are flying, checks are made with advantage.






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Flock of birds
Impediment




2
Tower
Hazard




3
Storm clouds
Barrier




4
Updraft
Impediment




5
Smoke
Poor visibility




6
Turbulence
Cramped space




7
Smokestack
Hazard




8
Ship mast
Hazard




9
Dust
Poor visibility




10
Ice buildup
Entanglement




11-20
No Complication







Artic Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Crevice
Hazard




2
Snow drifts
Cramped space




3
Blowing snow
Poor visibility




4
Ice cliff
Barrier




5
Chunks of broken ice
Impediment




6
Herd of walrus
Animal herd




7
Snow bank
Uneven Ground




8
Field of Ice boulders
Obstacles




9
Ice bridge over river
Hazard




10
Pond covered by thin ice
Hazard




11-20
No Complication







Beach Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Tidal pool
Impediment




2
Crevice
Hazard




3
River
Barrier




4
Flock of birds
Impediment




5
Fishing nets
Entanglement




6
Sand hill
Uneven Ground




7
Lobster traps
Obstacles




8
Pier
Hazard




9
Driftwood
Impediment




10
Sea turtles
Animal herd




11-20
No Complication







Cave Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Crevice
Hazard




2
Narrow passage
Cramped space




3
Bats
Impediment




4
Floor slopes up or down
Uneven Ground




5
Giant mushrooms
Obstacles




6
Roots across passage
Entanglement




7
Stalagmites
Impediment




8
Wet floor
Hazard




9
Ruble covered floor
Impediment




10
Lava crossing
Barrier




11-20
No Complication







Church Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Curtains across path
Entanglement




2
Stairway
Uneven Ground




3
Pews
Obstacles




4
Narrow hallway
Cramped space




5
Highly polished floor
Hazard




6
Smoke filled room
Poor visibility




7
Chimes across path
Entanglement




8
Railing across path
Hazard




9
Balcony to climb
Barrier




10
Loose rugs on floor
Impediment




11-20
No Complication







City Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Alleyway
Cramped space




2
Bridge
Hazard




3
Crowd
Crowd




4
Dangling Things
Entanglement




5
Market
Cramped space




6
Fence or wall across path
Barrier




7
Garden
Impediment




8
Large Animals
Animal herd




9
Rooftop
Hazard




10
Stables
Impediment




11-20
No Complication







Desert Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Dunes
Uneven Ground




2
Oasis
Impediment




3
Quicksand
Hazard




4
River bed
Impediment




5
Whirlwind
Impediment




6
Cliff
Barrier




7
Steep grade
Uneven Ground




8
Cactus patch
Impediment




9
Rocky Ground
Obstacles




10
Crevice
Hazard




11-20
No Complication







 Dungeon Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Pit
Hazard




2
Stairs up
Uneven Ground




3
Stairs down
Uneven Ground




4
Coffins
Obstacles




5
Rubble
Impediment




6
Columns or Statues
Cramped space




7
Slime covered floor
Hazard




8
Natural cavern
Impediment




9
Torture chamber
Impediment




10
Chains across path
Entanglement




11-20
No Complication







 Forest Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Log bridge crossing a stream
Hazard




2
Heavily forested
Cramped space




3
Dense brush
Poor visibility




4
Thick hedges
Barrier




5
Fallen tree
Impediment




6
Vines across path
Entanglement




7
The trail suddenly drops off
Impediment




8
Panicked monkeys
Impediment




9
2′ tall ferns obscuring path
Hazard




10
Thorn bushes
Impediment




11-20
No Complication







Graveyard Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Open grave
Hazard




2
Low fence
Hazard




3
High fence
Barrier




4
Loose dirt
Impediment




5
Tombstones
Cramped space




6
Crypt
Impediment




7
Coffin
Impediment




8
Funeral Coach
Impediment




9
Funeral procession
Crowd




10
Vine covered graves
Entanglement




11-20
No Complication







Indoor Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Narrow hallway
Cramped space




2
Stairs
Uneven Ground




3
Dining or sales area
Obstacles




4
Curtains or beads across path
Entanglement




5
Littered floor
Impediment




6
Jump off balcony
Hazard




7
Jump through window
Hazard




8
Kitchen
Impediment




9
Slippery floors
Hazard




10
Hole in floor
Hazard




11-20
No Complication







Mountain Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Crevice
Hazard




2
Steep incline
Hazard




3
Path narrows
Cramped space




4
Blind Corner
Poor visibility




5
Cliff
Barrier




6
Flock of birds
Impediment




7
Vines crossing path
Entanglement




8
Mountain goats
Animal herd




9
Field of boulders
Obstacles




10
Log bridge across chasm
Hazard




11-20
No Complication







Ocean Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Coral maze
Hazard




2
School of dolphins
Animal herd




3
Kelp beds
Entanglement




4
Narrow strait
Cramped space




5
Precipitation
Poor visibility




6
Reef
Hazard




7
Swell
Uneven Ground




8
Flotsam
Impediment




9
Fishing nets
Entanglement




10
School of sea turtles
Obstacles




11-20
No Complication







Swamp Complications






1d20
Complication
Type




1
Quicksand
Hazard




2
Thick Vegetation
Cramped space




3
Muck & Mire
Impediment




4
Insect swarm
Poor visibility




5
Shallow water
Hazard




6
Deep Water
Barrier




7
Vines crossing path
Entanglement




8
Lots of alligators
Animal herd




9
Slick, algae covered ground
Hazard




10
Fallen logs
Impediment




11-20
No Complication







 

			


			

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D&D 5E – Stealth and Hiding

			

				

					99 Comments
					Posted by  on December 28, 2014
									

			

			

				
sneaky


PCs being sneaky. Clarification of Stealth and Hiding Rules.


In the new 5th edition Player’s Handbook, the rules for Hiding/Sneaking are a bit unclear. In my attempt to make sense out of rules for hiding, I finally realized that the rules for stealth and for hiding are one in the same.


The rulebooks never give a precise definition of hiding. There is no “hidden condition”. After searching through the rulebooks, the best definition of “being hidden” that I could come up with is this: “Your opponent either doesn’t know that you are there, doesn’t pay any attention to you, or doesn’t know where exactly you are located”. Using this broad definition works well with all of the rules as presented. It also means that you could be hidden even if all your foe had to do is to look in your direction to see you. When he did, you would no longer be hidden. It also means that when you are successful at being stealthy, it has the same effect as being hidden.


The main rule in the Player’s Handbook for hiding is: “You can’t hide from a creature that can see you.” This sounds like it is saying that you must either be in a heavily obscured area or have total cover to even attempt to hide. I contend that this is not correct. It only means that whoever you are attempting to hide from is not looking in your direction (the DM has the final say on this).


“Being stealthy” is trying to remain undetected which is the same as trying to hide. Examples abound in the Player’s Handbook to support this idea. In the section on surprise, the terms “be stealthy” and “hiding” are used to mean the same thing. In the section on noticing threats “hidden threats” obviously includes “a stealthy creature following the group”. On the section on stealth – traveling at a slow pace, it says to refer to the rules on hiding when trying to “surprise or sneak by other creatures.” In the section on perception “hear monsters moving stealthily in the forest,” “orcs lying in ambush on a road,” and “thugs hiding in the shadows of an alley” are all examples of creatures that your Wisdom (Perception) check lets you detect. And in the section on stealth “Make a Dexterity (Stealth) check when you attempt to conceal yourself from enemies, slink past guards, slip away without being noticed, or sneak up on someone without being seen or heard.” Which are all examples of being hidden.


So when can I attempt to hide?


You can attempt to hide whenever the creature or creatures you are attempting to hide from can’t see you. You could be invisible. (Being hidden is different from the “Invisible” condition in that you can be invisible and still not be hidden if your opponent can tell where you are by hearing you or by some other means.) Or you could be on the opposite side of anything that provides total cover, or in a heavily obscured area (such as darkness if your foe doesn’t have darkvision), or your foe could be distracted (if the DM agrees). You can also attempt to hide if you are in a lightly obscured area if you have the Skulker feat.


With the wood elf’s “Mask of the Wild” ability you can attempt to hide even when you are only lightly obscured by foliage, heavy rain, falling snow, mist, and other natural phenomena. From the wording, I take it to mean that you can’t use this ability to attempt to hide in dim lighting (although your DM might allow it), but you can in the area of effect of an insect plague.


With the lightfoot halfling’s “Naturally Stealthy” ability you can attempt to hide even when you are obscured only by a creature that is at least one size larger than you. You would have to first move to a position that placed that creature between you and the creature you are hiding from.


The Rogue’s “Cunning Action” that allows him to take a hide action as a bonus action each round, does not release him from the need to meet at least one of the above requirements before attempting to hide.


How do I hide?


As a hide action in combat, or any time you attempt to hide, you make a Dexterity (Stealth) check and write down that number. As long as you remain in hiding, if any creature has a chance to detect your presence, their Passive Wisdom (Perception) score must beat your stealth check. I would rule that if you are hiding and cannot be seen and are silent the creatures would normally have no chance to detect you. If a creature is actively trying to locate you, compare your check to a Wisdom (Perception) check that the creature makes at that time. If you cannot be seen, or if you are in an area that is lightly obscured, they have disadvantage on the check.


What benefits do I receive from being hidden?


If you are hidden before the first round of combat you can surprise your opponents and get a free round to attack them before they can react. (You are no longer hidden after you attack.)


On all attacks against you, the attacker must first identify where he thinks you are located. The attack will automatically miss if you are not in that 5 foot area. If you are in that area, the attack is made with disadvantage on the attack roll. The DM should require a roll with disadvantage, even if you are not in the targeted area and simply tell the attacker that his attack missed.


If you are hidden you make attacks with advantage. However, you will no longer be hidden if the attack hits or misses.


When am I no longer hidden?


You can come out of hiding at any time of your choosing. You are no longer hidden if you attack someone even if the attack misses (exception: if you have the Skulker feat, attacking with a ranged weapon and missing doesn’t reveal your position).


If you move to a location where your opponent can see you, or if your opponent moves into a position where he can see you, or if the object or creature that was providing your total cover moves or is no longer providing cover for some reason, if you make a noise, or do anything that could give away your position, the creature you are hiding from can make another Wisdom (Perception) check to attempt to detect you.


If you move from a heavily obscured area to a lightly obscured area you can try to continue to hide but the creatures you are hiding from get a Wisdom (Perception) check to detect you.


Once you are no longer hidden your opponents will know where you are so they no longer have to guess where to attack. But if you can still not be seen (if you are invisible, for example), attack rolls against you have disadvantage, and your attack rolls still have advantage.


If I am hiding behind a tree, can I stand out and attack with my ranged weapon with advantage and then return to hiding on my round of combat?


It depends. If you are doing this during a fight, it is assumed that all the creatures in the fight are alert and aware their surroundings, so they get a Wisdom (Perception) check to spot you when you move out from behind total cover. If they succeed you are no longer hiding so you don’t get advantage to the attack. However, if the fight hasn’t started yet, you have a chance to surprise them as long as they aren’t looking in your direction. In that case you an attack with advantage, but you will no longer be hidden as soon as you attack. If you are a 2nd level or higher rogue you can use a bonus action to attempt to hide again. But remember, if they see you duck behind a tree, they have a good guess at where you are hiding. In that case, when you stuck your head out I would give them advantage on their perception check – or give them an automatic success, depending on the circumstances.


Be a good DM and have the players describe what their characters are doing. If it makes logical sense, go for it. Don’t let the players use the rules to turn “hide” into a magical condition.

			


			

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D&D 5E – Uses for a shield

			

				

					3 Comments
					Posted by  on December 18, 2014
									

			

			

				
Pal_Shield


What is the best use of a Shield and Longsword combo?


I received this inquiry the other day: “I like to play a Paladin that often uses a Shield and Long Sword combo. However, I have noticed that there is no shield bash in 5E. I have been using the shove instead as an action between a Trip and Shield bash. Are you aware of any attack that tries to leverage a Shield in 5E? I would really like to stress a shield proficiency for my build if possible.”


Here are my thoughts:


A shield is an improvised weapon dealing 1d4 bludgeoning damage.


Paladins are proficient with shields. Whether said proficiency extends to it being used as an improvised weapon is not specified, but there’s no reason why it shouldn’t be.


Note that shields aren’t light weapons, and thus can’t be used for normal two-weapon fighting.


If your Paladin adopts the “protection” fighting style at 2nd level:


“When a creature you can see attacks a target other than you that is within 5 feet of you, you can use your reaction to impose disadvantage on the attack roll. You must be wielding a shield.”


If your group is using feats (I think most are) there is the “Shield Master” feat:


You use shields not just for protection but also for offense. You gain the following benefits while you are wielding a shield:


If you take the Attack action on your turn, you can use a bonus action to try to shove a creature within 5 feet of you with your shield. (If I was DMing the game, I would allow the use of this bonus action to either shove a creature or to attack it with the shield as an improvised weapon.)


If you aren’t incapacitated, you can add your shield’s AC bonus to any Dexterity saving throw you make against a spell or other harmful effect that targets only you.


If you are subjected to an effect that allows you to make a Dexterity saving throw to take only half damage, you can use your reaction to take no damage if you succeed on the saving throw, interposing your shield between yourself and the source of the effect.


And the “War Master” feat will allow you to cast spells while holding both your shield and sword.


I would like to hear if anyone has any other thoughts on this matter.

			


			

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D&D 5E – Poisons

			

				

					18 Comments
					Posted by  on October 6, 2014
									

			

			

				
poison


Poisons in D&D 5e explained


Although save or die poisons haven’t been in D&D since before the 3rd edition, I still regret the time I was running an adventure and a first level character encountered a poison spider. He failed his save and died. Not fun. D&D 5e has really simplified the use of poisons. No more initial and secondary damage. No more ability damage. No onset time. No multiple saves (I was always forgetting to require the second saving throw a few minutes later for secondary damage). And, of course, no save or die.


I am sure there will be more about poison when the Dungeon Master’s Guide comes out, but for now here is my attempt to remove some of the confusion about poisons in the current, fifth edition of Dungeons and Dragons.  [As expected, the Dungeon Master’s Guide contains additional information regarding poisons. Starting on page 257 it describes the four different types of poisons (contact, ingested, inhaled and injury). It also has a list of 14 different sample poisons with their descriptions and prices. It also has information on purchasing poison and on crafting and harvesting poison.]




Using Poison


The only poison listed in the Player’s Handbook is basic poison. You can buy a vile for 100gp. You can coat one slashing or piercing weapon or up to three pieces of ammunition with it. Applying the poison takes an action. A creature hit by the poisoned weapon or ammunition must make a DC 10 Constitution saving throw or take 1d4 poison damage. Once applied, the poison retains potency for 1 minute before drying.


The description doesn’t say that the poison wipes off when you hit a creature with it, so you can continue doing damage for 1 minute after it is applied. Plenty of time for the typical encounter. The poison damage is in addition to any other damage the weapon would normally inflict. The creature hit by this poison takes poison damage but doesn’t become poisoned (see below).


Unlike previous editions, the Player’s Handbook doesn’t say that using poison is an evil act. So it is up to the DM to decide. Perhaps some types of poison are more evil than others?


Some poisons do hit point damage, some give you the poisoned condition, and some do both.


Taking poison damage


Poison damage is hit point damage, the type of damage is poison. Most poisons allow a Constitution saving throw to avoid any poison damage [basic poison and poison spray spell for example], but some don’t allow a saving throw [like basilisk poison]. Still others do poison damage on failed save, or half as much damage on a successful save [like the cloudkill spell or dragon breath].


Becoming poisoned


Although a failed saving throw is not always required to receive poison damage, you must always fail your Constitution saving throw to become poisoned. When the description says you “become poisoned” it means that you will have the poisoned condition, which gives you disadvantage on attack rolls and ability checks.


The poison description will indicate how long this condition will last. The weakest last only until the start of your next turn. Others last until end of your next turn, or for 1 minute or for 24 hours. Some last until saved against and allow you to attempt a saving throw each round. The most powerful last until removed by the lesser restoration spell or similar magic.


On a successful saving throw against some creature’s poison, you are immune to this creature’s poison for 24 hours


Additional conditions


While the poison condition is in effect, different poisons may also impose one or more additional conditions (sometimes the additional conditions are only in effect if the saving throw fails by 5 or more). The additional condition might be Paralyzed, Incapacitated or Unconscious. For the Unconscious condition, some poisons allow another creature to use an action to shake the target awake. Although awake, he would still have the poison condition. Another effect could be that you can take either an action or a bonus action on your turn, not both, and you can’t take reactions. Other poisons have you take some amount of poison damage at the start of each turn, or not allow you to regain hit points while you are poisoned.


Diseases


Arguably, the worst poisons are those that leave you infected with a disease.


These allow a saving throw against disease or become poisoned until the disease is cured.


Here are the diseases listed in the Monster Manual:


GAS SPORE – Spores invade an infected creature’s system, killing the creature in a number of hours equal to 1d12 +the creature’s Constitution score, unless the disease is removed. In half that time, the creature becomes poisoned for the rest of the duration. After the creature dies, it sprouts 2d4 tiny gas spores that grow to full size in 7 days.


OTYUGH and DEATH DOG: Every 24 hours that elapse, the target must repeat the saving throw, reducing its hit point maximum by 5 (1d10) on a failure. The disease is cured on a success. The target dies if the disease reduces its hit point maximum to 0. This reduction to the target’s hit point maximum lasts until the disease is cured.

			


			

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D&D 5E – Bounded Accuracy

			

				

					41 Comments
					Posted by  on August 30, 2014
									

			

			

				
This is my attempt to explain the term “bounded accuracy”.


bounded accuracy


Bounded accuracy is the term that WotC uses to represent a role playing game design concept. It is not a “rule” and you won’t find it in the Player’s Handbook, but it is the foundational design philosophy behind the core of 5 Edition D&D.


The “accuracy” part of the term refers to how hard it is to do something. For combat, this relates directly to armor class and bonuses to your attack roll.


The “bounded” part of the term refers to establishing upper limits.


 What are the limits?


There is a maximum Ability Score of 20, a maximum Difficulty Class of 30, and a maximum Armor Class of 30. There is a maximum Ability bonus of +5 and a maximum Proficiency Bonus of +6 making a maximum total bonus of +11 (resulting in a maximum score of 30 on a roll of 19.)


Also, there is typically no more than +1 on magic items, with +3 being the cap and representing things of artifact power. The game makes no assumption that you have magical enhancement bonuses on your weapons and armor.


This is all about the Core Mechanic: To resolve an action roll a 20-sided die and add modifiers. If the result is greater than or equal to a target number then the action succeeds.


Regardless if this target number is a Difficulty Class (DC) or an Armor Class (AC), the concept is the same.






DC-or-AC
Difficulty
To Break
Armor
To Hit




5
Very Easy
a glass bottle

an inanimate object




10
Easy
a wooden chair
No Armor
a badger




15
Medium
a simple door
Leather Armor*
a troll




20
Hard
a small chest
Plate Armor**
a dragon***




25
Very Hard
a treasure chest

a tarrasque




30
Nearly Impossible
a masonry wall(1 ft. thick)

a deity




*with shield and +2 Dex modifier **with shield ***Adult Red Dragon is AC 19






To explain the effects of bounded accuracy on the game, it can be illustrative to compare its effect on three different characters.


Let’s start with a typical commoner. We’ll call him Fred. Fred is average in every respect. All of his ability scores are average (10) and Fred has no proficiencies or special skills. The table above was designed with Fred in mind. If any task is hard for Fred, it has a DC of 20. Fred adds no modifiers to his d20 roll when he attempts a task.


Our second character is Norman. Norman is a first level Fighter. The highest modifier Norman could add to his d20 roll would be about +5 (Ability +3, Proficiency +2).


Our third character is Conan. Conan is a 20th level Fighter. The highest modifier Conan could add to his d20 roll would be about +11 (Ability +5, Proficiency +6).


All three characters attempt to do something “hard”. They all need a 20. Fred rolls a 20 and succeeds. Norman’s roll is only 15, but with his +5 modifier he also succeeds. Conan only rolls a 9, but with his +11 modifier, he succeeds. So this “hard” thing is hard for Fred, not so hard for Norman and it is easy for Conan. Being normal PCs, Norman and Conan are better at some things than they are at others. They do not have maximum ability scores in all of their abilities, and they are not proficient at everything. At some tasks, they may not have a better chance of success than Fred does. Conversely, not all Non-Player Characters (NPCs) are as “average” as Fred. At some tasks, a NPC may have an ability score that is higher than a PC and a larger proficiency bonus. So most tasks within reach of specialist also fall within the ability of a lucky novice.


Higher level characters and tougher monsters are that way because they can do more damage, more often, in more ways than lower level characters.


If you are new to D&D, this may all seem obvious, and hardly worth more than a passing glance. However, this is a break from some earlier versions of the game. In some earlier versions, your PC’s “to hit” bonuses and Armor Class increased with each level and thus forced monster attacks/defenses to also increase with level. This resulted in lower level creatures being unable to have any possibility of hitting higher level PCs and visa-versa. This was done in the very reasonable goal of allowing higher level PCs to combat tougher monsters. D&D 5e accomplishes this goal, not by making tougher monsters harder to hit but by making them harder to defeat by giving them more hit points. So as PCs increase in level they do improve in their ability to hit higher armor classes (although at a much slower rate) but their ability to defeat tougher opponents comes mainly from their increased ability to inflict more damage when they do hit, and their increased capacity to survive stronger attacks due to their own increased number of hit points. So in this edition, characters can meaningfully interact with the same threats for most of their career, if they so choose. Lower level monsters will still be a threat at higher levels if they are encountered in larger numbers.


 This was described by Rodney Thompson in Legends & Lore (June 4th, 2012) on the Wizards of the Coast website. This is no longer available on their web site, so I quote from it here:


The basic premise behind the bounded accuracy system is simple: we make no assumptions on the DM’s side of the game that the player’s attack and spell accuracy, or their defenses, increase as a result of gaining levels. Instead, we represent the difference in characters of various levels primarily through their hit points, the amount of damage they deal, and the various new abilities they have gained. Characters can fight tougher monsters not because they can finally hit them, but because their damage is sufficient to take a significant chunk out of the monster’s hit points; likewise, the character can now stand up to a few hits from that monster without being killed easily, thanks to the character’s increased hit points. Furthermore, gaining levels grants the characters new capabilities, which go much farther toward making your character feel different than simple numerical increases.


Now, note that I said that we make no assumptions on the DM’s side of the game about increased accuracy and defenses. This does not mean that the players do not gain bonuses to accuracy and defenses. It does mean, however, that we do not need to make sure that characters advance on a set schedule, and we can let each class advance at its own appropriate pace. Thus, wizards don’t have to gain a +10 bonus to weapon attack rolls just for reaching a higher level in order to keep participating; if wizards never gain an accuracy bonus, they can still contribute just fine to the ongoing play experience.


This extends beyond simple attacks and damage. We also make the same assumptions about character ability modifiers and skill bonuses. Thus, our expected DCs do not scale automatically with level, and instead a DC is left to represent the fixed value of the difficulty of some task, not the difficulty of the task relative to level.


 


The link is back up on the Wizard’s site if you want to read Rodney Thompson’s comments in their entirety :  Legends & Lore Archive | 6/4/2012

			


			

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D&D 5E – Threat creation using bounded accuracy

			

				

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					Posted by  on August 11, 2014
									

			

			

				
TrapThis is an expansion of an idea presented by the “Thinkerer GM” here: http://thinkerergm.wikispaces.com/Threat+creation+using+bounded+accuracy


He says: “This system allows to create a threat (monster, trap, etc) by extending the Difficulty Classes to apply it to other characteristics. ”


You can use these guidelines for monsters and traps that you can’t find in official sources, such as monsters that you are converting from an older module, or one of your own design.


Here is his table


Extended Difficulty Classes Table






Difficulty\Characteristic
AC
 Attack 

Bonus		
HP
Damage
Save DC
CR




Very Easy (DC 5)
8
+2
5
2 (1d4)
11
0




Easy (DC 10)
10
+3
10
4 (1d6)
12
1/4




Moderate (DC 15)
12
+4
20
8 (2d6+1)
13
1




Hard (DC 20)
14
+5
40
16 (2d10+5)
14
3




Very Hard (DC 25)
16
+6
80
32 (2d10+21)
15
5




Formidable (DC 30)
18
+7
160
64 (2d10+53)
16
7




Nearly Impossible (DC 35)
20
+8
320
128 (2d6+117)
17
9






 


This is the idea for Traps:

How hard is it to notice? [DC for WIS (Perception) check]

How hard is it to locate? [DC for INT (Investigation) check]

How hard is it to avoid? (If it is activated.) [Attack bonus]

How hard is it to deactivate? [DC for DEX (Disable device) check]

How hard is it to destroy? [Hit Points]

How hard is it to hit? (in the proper location or with enough force to cause it damage) [AC]

How hard is it to save against? (for poison and the like) [Save DC]

How hard is it to endure? [Damage]


Answer each of these questions with “very easy”, “easy”, “moderate”, “hard”, “very hard”, “formidable”, or “nearly impossible”, and look up the difficulty class table above.


Add all of the DC’s together and divide by 8 to get the average DC for the trap. Use this DC for the traps Challenge Rating (CR).


The idea is very similar for monsters:


How hard is it to detect? [DC for WIS (Perception) check]

How hard is it to avoid? [Attack bonus]

How hard is it to hit? [AC]

How hard is it to destroy? [Hit Points]

How hard is it to save against? (for poison or spells) [Save DC]

How hard is it to endure? [Damage]


Add all of the DC’s together and divide by 6 to get the average DC for the monster. Use this DC for determining the CR if the monster is encountered singly. Use the next higher DC for an encounter with two of these monsters. Increase the DC by one additional level for each doubling of the number of monsters in the encounter. For example, a DC 10 monster becomes DC 15 it there are two of them, DC 20 for 4, DC 25 for 8, etc.


For DCs above 35; For each additional level, increase the DC by 5 and increase the CR by 2.


When determining how hard it is to do these various things, you should be thinking about a single, 0 level commoner. This is what bounded accuracy is all about. Each activity is hard or easy regardless of the level of the characters attempting it. To determine how difficult an encounter this will be for your group use the CR and adjust for the number of PCs.


For Experience Points, you can use the XP values of similar CR monsters as a guide.


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D&D 5E – Quick Reference – Combat

			

				

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					Posted by  on July 26, 2014
									

			

			

				
Combat-main_FullThe combat rules for 5th Edition Dungeons and Dragons are much simpler than previous editions. This is a quick reference guide to the new rules. Refer to the complete rules (which can be downloaded for free here) for more detailed information. This is my own interpretation of those rules. Refer to the DM notes at the end for my house rules.


Each round represents 6 seconds in the game world. Anything a person could reasonably do in 6 seconds, your character can do in 1 round.


Each round, during your turn, you can move and take one action.


• You don’t have to move, but if you choose to, you can move a distance up to your speed. You can move before or after you take an action, or you can move first, take an action, and then move again, as long as the total distance moved doesn’t exceed your speed.

• You don’t have to take an action during your turn, but if you choose to, you can attempt to do anything that could be accomplished in 6 seconds or less. The most common action taken in combat is the attack action. See below for a list of actions that can be performed in combat.

• If your action permits multiple attacks, you can move between attacks so long as you haven’t used all of your move distance based on your speed.

• Your move can include jumping onto or off of things, jumping over things, climbing walls or ropes, swinging on ropes or chandeliers, or moving in any way that your character is capable of such as swimming or flying for example.


You can interact with one object as part of either your move or your action.


You can manipulate the object in an uncomplicated way. Some examples include:

•    Draw or sheath a weapon

•    Draw Two One-Handed Weapons [You can normally draw only 1 weapon for free on your turn. Dual Wielder lets you draw 2.]

•    Transfer an item from one hand to the other

•    Load a crossbow

•    Retrieve or put away a stored item*

•    Pick up an item

•    Move an object

•    Open a chest

•    Open a door

* You may only retrieve an item if it was stowed for easy access. If you must dig through your backpack to find something inside, it may require use of an action to retrieve it.

Doing more than one of these things requires the use of an action.


As part of your move or your action, you can do things that take little or no time and don’t interfere with your movement.


These activities take very little time, though there may be limits to the number you can perform in a turn. Examples include:

•    Drawing ammunition for use with a ranged weapon (such as arrows, bolts, sling bullets, or shuriken).

•    Dropping an item to your feet or within 5 feet of your current location.

•    Dropping to a prone position. (Standing up from prone, however, takes half of your movement for the turn.)

•    Speaking (you can always speak, even when it isn’t your turn – within reason.)


You may be able to take an additional, bonus action.


• A special ability, spell, or other feature of the game may allow you to do something as a bonus action. You are only allowed one bonus action in a round.

•    Example: If you have a short sword in one hand and dagger in the other, after using your action to attack with the sword, you can use a bonus action to attack with the dagger (refer to the rules on two-weapon fighting.)


You are allowed one reaction each round.


A reaction is an action that is triggered by an external event.


• A special ability, spell, or other feature of the game may allow you to react to a specific triggering event.

• If an opponent attempts to move past you or attacks you and then attempts to move away, you get a free swing at him. This is called an opportunity attack, and it is the most common reaction.

• Another example would be a wizard’s feather fall spell that is triggered when the wizard is pushed over a cliff, or steps into a pit trap.

• Your reaction does not have to occur during your turn, but can occur at any time during the round. If it occurs during another’s turn, his turn is suspended until your reaction is resolved.


Surprise


If surprised, you lose your turn for the first round of combat. After your turn, you are no longer surprised so you can use a reaction after your turn has passed, even during the remainder of the first round.


Actions in Combat


During your turn in a combat round, you can perform any one of the following actions.


Attack


You can make one melee or ranged attack. Some features may allow you to make more than one attack with this action.


Cast a Spell


You can cast any spell that you are capable of casting that has a listed casting time of one action.


Note regarding components: Retrieving the required material (M) component from a pocket or pouch is included in the “Cast a Spell” action. If the spell also has a somatic (S) component, you can perform the required hand gestures while holding the material component in that same hand. Therefore, if you are holding two weapons, or a weapon and a shield, at the beginning of your turn, you can sheath one weapon (refer to “interact with one object” above) and then draw the material component and cast the spell all in the same round. [A material component is not consumed with the casting of the spell, unless the spell description specifically says that it is.]


Dash


Rather than performing any other action, you spend the entire round moving. This allows you to move twice as far this round. It is effectively a double move action. [You use your dash action to move your speed then use your move to go that distance again.]


Disengage


If you start the round within 5 feet of an opponent that can see you, you can use this action to move away from him without provoking an opportunity attack. [The disengage action does not include a move. You use the disengage action to avoid an opportunity attack while you use your move to travel up to your speed.]


Dodge


This is a total defense action. You spend the round trying to avoid being hit. Until the start of your next turn, any attack roll made against you has disadvantage if you can see the attacker, and you make Dexterity saving throws with advantage.


Help


You can use your action to help an ally attack an opponent within 5 feet of you. You don’t make an attack yourself, but when your friend attacks, his first attack roll is made with advantage.

Or you can help him with any other task. If you are in position to do so, and your assistance could reasonably be seen to be of help, he will gain advantage on his ability check to accomplish the task.


Hide


The act of hiding requires an action to attempt. You must make a Dexterity (Stealth) check to see if you successfully hide from your opponents.

Additional information regarding the hide action here: Stealth and Hiding


Ready


Rather than taking and action during your turn, you wait for some specific event and then take your action as a reaction. You can still move up to the distance indicated by your move rate, but you can take no other action this round. You must specify two things –

1) What the triggering event will be.

This can be anything you think might happen that you can observe. If the event occurs before the start of your turn on the next round you can perform your readied action at that time. Some examples could be: If the sniper sticks his head up, If more Orcs come around the corner, If the rope brakes, If the water level rises, If the evil magic user starts to cast a spell, If the guard spots the thief, If the prisoner attempts to escape.

2) What action you will take.

This can be any of the combat actions.

Note that this action will be a reaction and you can only have one reaction per round. This means that if you take another reaction, you lose your readied action. Conversely, if you use your readied action you can have no other reactions this round.

• If the triggering event occurs, you can choose to not take your readied action.

• If you choose Dash as a readied action, you can move up to your move rate.

• If you choose Cast a Spell as a readied action, you cast the spell during your turn but hold off on releasing the energy of the spell until the triggering event occurs. You must concentrate to hold the spell’s energy. Anything that breaks your concentration before the final release of the spell’s energy results in the loss of the spell. If the triggering event doesn’t occur this round, you can continue to hold the spell with continued concentration into the following round, or you can cast it as an action on your next turn, or you can lose it.


Search


You can use your action to attempt to find something. The DM might require you to make a Wisdom (Perception) check or an Intelligence (Investigation) check.


Use an Object


An object may require an action for you to use it, or you may need to use this action to interact with more than one object in a round.


Improvised Action


There are many more things that a combatant could do during a round than can be accounted for in the above actions. When you want to attempt something that is not covered by any of the above actions, you can use an improvised action.


Examples of an improvised action:


“I want to pull the rug out from under that guy.”

“I want to jump on the monster and attack him with my sword while I ride on to his back.”

“I want to talk them into surrendering.”

“I want to break that flask the bad guy is holding.” (attack an object)

“I want to slide down the stairs on my shield while I fire arrows at the enemy.”

“I want to intimidate then into running away.”

“I want to grab that piece of folded parchment that is sticking out of his vest pocket.”

“I want to slide under the table and stab that guy in his ankle with my dagger.”

“I want to sheath my sword and walk up to that guy and tweak his nose.”

“I want to hit that rope with my arrow in such a way as to cut the rope and let the body that is hanging from it fall to the ground.”

“I want to disarm my opponent.” (This could be a called shot to the hand, shattering an opponent’s weapon, severing a spear shaft, entangling a sword arm, or using the flat of a blade to smack a weapon from an enemy’s hand.)

“I want to push him into the pit.” (Use the rules for “Shoving a Creature” – this could include shield bashes, tackles, bull rushes, overruns, tables hurled into enemies, doors smashed into opponents on the other side, and so on. Generally speaking, this could be any attempt to use brute strength to move an opponent. Any attempt to shove creatures off a nearby cliff, through a railing, out a chapel’s stained-glass window, and so on will allow the creature a dexterity save.)

“I want to trip that guy.” (This could be any attempt to knock an enemy off its feet. Whether it’s hooking an enemy’s leg, stabbing a kneecap, knocking an opponent off-balance, hurling an enemy away, sweeping an enemy’s legs, or some other maneuver, this improvised action would allow the warrior to knock an enemy prone.)


The following rules apply to improvised actions:

1. You must explain the improvised action to the DM. The DM may rule that what you want to do will require more than one round, or that it is simply impossible (you can’t fire an arrow into the sky and hit the moon). He may ask you to be more specific regarding the action you want to take and how the action will achieve the results you want.

2. The improvised action can also include all or part of your move. Successfully jumping on – or diving into a creature will give you advantage on the attack roll. A failed attempt results in your move stopping at the point there the attack takes place and may grant your opponent an advantage on his next attack against you.

3. To perform the improvised action the DM will normally have you make an ability check. The DM will assign an appropriate difficulty class and will explain possible consequences if the attempted action fails. For example, if you attempt to jump off of the balcony onto the monster in the center of the room and miss you may end up prone.


Most improvised actions can be resolved as simple contests.

Player: “I want to try to [describes some form of physical contest other than an attack roll].”

DM: “Okay, make a Strength (Athletics) check.”

DM compares result to opponent’s Strength (Athletics) or Dexterity (Acrobatics) check, perhaps giving someone advantage or disadvantage.


DM Notes: Some of the information above deviates somewhat from the official rules. You can consider these to be my House Rules.

Retrieving a stored Item – This should only be allowed as part of your move or action if you don’t have to dig through your backpack to find it.

Speaking – Should be allowed at any time

Disengage – I will only allow this action if you are currently engaged in combat and want to withdraw without provoking an opportunity attack.

Help – It only makes logical sense to be able to help another if there is some action that you could take that might possibly be of help to him.

Improvised action – I got rather wordy here, but I think these should be encouraged.

			


			

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D&D 5E – Character Sheet

			

				

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					Posted by  on July 18, 2014
									

			

			

				
Sheets


Download this Autofill PDF file HERE


UPDATE: The character sheets on this page are an older version. For the most recent auto-calculate Character Sheets click HERE.


Here are some ready-to-play first level character sheets: D&D 5E – Quick Play Character Sheets


I really like the new fifth edition rules, but I am not a big fan of the character sheet provided by Wizards of the Coasts in The Basic Rules for Dungeons and Dragons, so I created my own. I found several others that fans have created, but I don’t care for them much either.


This has everything the player needs for combat on the front or first page and everything else on the back or second page. There is a third sheet for spell casters.


Revision:


I revised the file somewhat. I added lifestyle expenses to the second page and made a few other minor changes. It fills in the current date and calculates ability modifiers. You can click on the date and change it. If you delete the date it fills in with the current date. If you don’t want any date printed, you can delete the date and add a space. I also added a “Clear” button on the first page. It doesn’t print, but be careful with it because it clears all of the information you have added to all three pages. I purposefully did not calculate any skill or saving throw bonuses. Typically, your skill bonuses will be your ability modifier. Put a check mark in the little box next to a skill if you are proficient in that skill and add your proficiency bonus to your ability modifier. I didn’t calculate this, because there are situations where some characters have a larger bonus than this.

Many thanks to George Karas for his help and suggestions. He felt that the spell list needed more room for more lengthy spell descriptions. For simplicity sake, I decided not to do that. My feeling is that if you want a more complete spell description you could copy the descriptions onto cards (that is what I would do) or add another sheet.

The border is wider on the left on page 1 and on the right on page 2. The reason for this is for those of you that want to print your character sheet on two sides of a single sheet of paper. There should be a wide enough border that you can punch holes on the side to put it into a three ring binder.

			


			

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